Publish Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009
Location: Gaspe, Quebec Province, Canada
Coordinates: 48° 49.687′ N 64° 28.553′ W
Tomorrow we leave the Province of Quebec for Prince Edward Island. During the last month, we have enjoyed a broad range of culture, food, and experiences, from the bustling cosmopolitan cities of Montreal and Quebec City, to the quieter life in the villages of Tadoussac, Matane, and Gaspe. We leave this area with a much greater understanding of the history and natural resources, which provide the all important canvas for modern day life in this Province.
The role of language in travel, however, may be the greatest insight I take with me as we leave this beautiful area. The universal language of a smile, coupled with charades, can definitely get you a meal, tickets, tourist information, and a bathroom. Je parle un peu Francaise. Think two-year-old. I understand the basic phonetic structure of the language, but lack the vocabulary or ability to string together several thoughtful sentences (particularly in the face of a rapid fire response in French to my question).
Canada is a bilingual country, with English and French both official languages. French is the premier language in the Province of Quebec. Signs, for the most part, throughout the country are in both languages. However, in the smaller Quebec towns, most of the historical and museum display signage are only in French. Montreal is a very bilingual city, Quebec City less so, and it decreases as you continue along the St. Lawrence river into more remote areas.
As a family, we believe strongly in respecting the traditions and language of countries we are visiting. We make every attempt to use the correct greetings, order our meals, and ask the most basic of questions in the language of origin. For the most part, locals genuinely appreciate the effort, and often uncertain encounters end in broad smiles — particularly when they finally understand what we are trying to communicate. For instance, when I apparently ordered apple fries and green water, versus french fries and a glass of water. 🙂
My favorite part of traveling is the people we meet. Getting to know them, and listening to their perspectives on their town, history, government, schools, environment, and a multitude of other topics. Lack of language fluency is a significant barrier to this type of local knowledge. On the other hand, it does allow you to become a keen observer of people and their interactions. Both approaches are probably equally important when trying to understand a new locale.
However, I miss the intimacy of a conversation. The light in someone’s eyes when they talk about their life or country. The questions they pose in return. The discovery of things we have in common, and the surprises about things you never knew existed. As we prepare for this circumnavigation, I long for the universal translator Captain Kirk used. Until then, I better get started on Rosetta Stone for Spanish, as Mexico and Central America will be our next foreign ports of call. Au revoir Quebec…..
I am the eldest brother of Paul Vais. I just read Kathryn’s most recent blog and I see that you are headed to Prince Edward Island. Thirty-seven years ago when I was on active duty with the US Coast Guard, I was the Officer-In-Charge of a US Coast Guard Recce Detachment that operated out of the Canadian Air Force Base at Summerside, PEI.
Nearly 40 years ago the population of PEI was mostly of Scotch/Irish ancestory,the French Acadian population having been disbursed to Lousiana and elsewhere long ago. However, there remained one small outpost of Acadian culture in PEI and that was, and maybe still is the town of Miscouch (sp?). When I was there French was the only language spoken in the town and there were a couple of outstanding restaurants thee as well. No one in my command, accept for myself could speak a word of French. The first time we went into the town for dinner, we were politely if not enthusiastically received until I requested the wine list and ordered wine for the table, all in French. From that point forward we were well received. I believe that being able to address the local inhabitants in their own language, even if rudimentary, always results in a positive experience.
Did you pass the two Islands in the Saint Lawrence Seaway, San Pierre et Miquelene? Coming back from a very long patrol mission, low on fuel we landed on St. Pierre because the weather at Summerside and primary alternatives at Muncton and Yarmouth was bad. I did not realize, until we taxied up to the airport and shut the engines down and I saw the French tricolr flying from the flag poll, that we had actually landed in France. At that time it was not cool to land a military aircraft in a foriegn country without having permission of the host country and the aknowledgement of the US Department of State. Initially, the French officials were not pleased, but I explained the situation, in French, and all was forgiven, especially after we purchased about 20,000 lbs. of jet fuel!!! Stimulating the local economy is always a formula for success.