Kathryn’s Voyage Blog

Publish Date: Sunday, September 13, 2009
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Coordinates: 44° 38.626′ N  63° 34.080′ W

On a spectacular sunny morning, with a cool breeze whispering the arrival of autumn, I thoroughly enjoyed participating in a Halifax Saturday morning tradition — the Farmers Market. Halifax proudly boasts the oldest continuously running Farmers Market in North America beginning in 1750.

Word in the cruising community was it was worth timing your visit to cover Saturday if you enjoy this type of activity — they were right! It begins bright and early at 7am and is officially over at 1pm, although many providers are out of their prized items by 10am. The market is honeycombed throughout an old brewery building utilizing all three stories of the structure and spanning a full city block in both length and breadth. Participants ranged from farmers to bakers, butchers to fish mongers, wine makers to brewers, and artisans to musicians. I could spend an entire season exploring the market and still not have tried all the vendors. It was definitely the happening scene and a celebration for the senses.

Since the market just happened to be right across the street from were we were moored at Bishop’s Landing, I took the opportunity to visit it three times at 7:30, 10:00 and noon. 🙂 The different dynamics within the market at each of these times was both noticeable and intriguing.  My first early morning visit was meant to just see the action, along with seeking out breakfast treats for the crew. The laughter and chatter among the vendors as the day was beginning was reminiscent of old friends gathering for a good visit — the sense was warm and genial. Stalls were overflowing with products, and early morning shoppers and local chefs were greeted with smiles along with ample choices.

At 10am the market was in full swing with the sounds of fiddles, accordions and harmonicas beckoning you through the doors. The energy was lively, bustling and slightly claustrophobic. The aisles were packed with people from families with babies in strollers, to college students and young professionals to retirees. Everybody  seemed glad to be there —partaking in the food while at the same time procuring items for future meals. Vendors were in full swing with produce, products and cash exchanging hands constantly. Yet in this dizzying din, smiles were a plenty and there was still time for explanation of products and recommendations. However, probably 25% of vendors were already out of their primary products, as supplies are limited by what is picked, grown, baked, crafted etc for the week. My bags now filled with Gravenstien apples (only grown in Nova Scotia and California), local cheese, bread, tomatoes etc I headed back to the boat determined to get Ayla and Dave to come see all the action.

By the time I had secured my new provisions and had the crew rounded up it was noon. So off we went, but this time it was yet a different scene. Many stands were now closed, most musicians were wrapping up, and it had the feeling of an after party hangover. Smiles lingered  upon faces, like they do at the end of a great event with friends, however the energy was definitely winding down. Conversation seemed quieter and exchanges were less solicitous (not for lack of interest but due to exhaustion). One must remember that many of the suppliers are up in the wee hours of the morning preparing their items and getting them to market— by noon they have put in more than a full day. Dave and Ayla still enjoyed seeing it, but I was glad I had been a part of it earlier in the day.

Halifax has a long history and pride in its locally grown and produced food from both land and sea. The result is a plethora of vendors and suppliers, but fortunately the demand is still greater.  A new Farmers Market will be opening soon at Pier 20 to provide more access to these great food items year round. However, I was assured that the Saturday morning seasonal tradition would continue as well. I felt this great connectedness to both the past, present and future as I stood in the midst of this Halifax Saturday morning tradition. I wonder what they’ll be selling here 260 years into the future.  I sure hope it will still include homemade jams and end of summer vine ripened tomatoes. 🙂