Publish Date: Thursday, October 15, 2009
Location: Coinjock, North Carolina
Coordinates: 36° 21.013′ N 75° 56.877′ W
We left Norfolk this morning and began to “run the ditch”, as they say. The weather off the east coast is terrible right now, and if it stays bad it’s possible for us to take the Intra-Coastal Waterway all the way to Florida. However, after only one day back on the ICW, we’re really hoping for improved weather outside!
It’s not that the ICW is a terrible waterway — it’s actually remarkable and wonderful in its own way. Its protected waters and numerous services allow boats of just about any size to navigate safely up and down the east coast of the United States. You could go from Baltimore to Miami in an open pontoon boat if you really wanted to!
The down side of the ICW is that it’s a lot of work, and it’s slow-going. Today’s run from Norfolk to Coinjock covered only 45 nautical miles, and they were not easy miles. We needed six bridges to open for us, we transited one lock, and we were passed by three barges being pushed by tugs. The waterway is so narrow that we were able to put the boat on auto-pilot only twice, for 20 minutes each time, which means we hand steered the rest of the time. And if you happen to stray from the channel, you will definitely run aground in the shallows that consistently flank the ICW. Oh, and did I mention it was pouring rain the whole day, the hardest when Kathryn and Ayla were handling the lines in the lock?
Our current plan is to get to Beaufort, North Carolina in a couple days, and then look for a weather opportunity to run out in the ocean from there to Beaufort, South Carolina. (These two towns are spelled exactly the same, but they are pronounced entirely differently!) We would need about 42-45 hours of good weather to make this run, which is hard to come by this time of year. Having said that, it’s starting to look like maybe Tue-Wed of next week will be an opportunity — so here’s hoping!
In the mean time, we’ll make progress fifty to sixty miles at a time, and enjoy our evenings docked or anchored in small towns along the way. Coinjock is in the middle of nowhere, and it’s a common stop for boats migrating south. The restaurant here serves its “world famous” 32-ounce prime rib dinner. Can somebody really eat that much meat in one sitting? Apparently so, but I think I’ll pass.
dave, eat the steak!!!!!!!!!!
You didn’t go outside around Cape Hatteras in this little blow? You wussy! A real sailor, in a Catana, wouldn’t have thought twice. Of course, if he survived, he would have sustained thousands of dollars of damage. But isn’t that what sailing is all about.
Enjoy Beaufort, SC. I loved it. Dataw Island Marina is off the beaten path but a nice place to stay. All the action is at the town docks. It’s overflowing with Southern charm. I guess that’s why so many novels are set there.
Steady as she goes, mate.
Dave, the weather here on Harsen’s Island is not much better, so we are seeding up the fitting out of you land yacht and heading south early. Our land yacht is a 40 ft Monaco MH which pulls a 24 ft trailer for our RIB and car and lot of other miscellaneous stuff.
It is funny that just the other day Janie and I came up with the same thought, that we may be traveling along the SE coast at the same time as you are, and could possibility see you. Beaufort SC is one on our itinerary but we probably won’t get there until sometime first week of Nov. After that we will be traveling down the cost into FL. My computer access will be limited once we are on the road so if you wouldn’t mind giving me your cell number……maybe we could hook up along the way.
One other thing, I don’t know how long you are planning to stay, or even if you are planning to stay, in the Ft. Lauderdale area, but I have a friend that lives on a quiet canal just off the ICW and I’m sure that I could make arrangements for you to dock there for as long as you wish. He is on HI now and doesn’t go down to FL until after Thanksgiving.
Smooth sailing!
Art
C 810-650-8319
I am really enjoying my arm chair travels with you. I met you at dinner in Northeast Harbor in the little lobster restaurant with my gang of 8. I recognized you from the article I had read in the Boulder Camera!
Is there a way to read past blogs? I havent been able to find a link.
The day after met me we had expected a storm but instead got 35 to 40 knot winds from the north so we enjoyed an exciting broad reach as we whipped south back towards Bath; we covered about 45 miles with me floating on the bow gazing into a gorgeous sunset.
I hope your weather turns soon. Sandy Ebling, Boulder
I am surprised how much progress three@sea has made since leaving Portsmouth. Wow! You must be feeling the warmer temps at this point. We’ve had a bit of a blow up here in New England for a couple days. Hope you are wide of this system.
I discovered your weblog today. You are living the next stage of our dream so we will be following your adventures closely. We are currently wandering North America in a converted bus. Sometime in the next 5 years we plan to move onto some kind of a boat. I can’t afford a Nordhavn but they are my dream vessel.