Publish Date: Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory making it extremely easy to visit as a U.S. citizen since you don’t need a passport, there are no customs and immigration, the currency is the same, and your normal communications devices such as cell phones and internet work as if in a mainland U.S. city. However, its enchanting location and 400+ years as a Spanish colony (1493 to 1898) infuse the senses with its own unique spell.
To be honest, not everyone feels the same way. As with all journeys, one’s perspective and personal experiences directly influence perception. To some, the erratic driving, plethora of fast food chains, language confusion, spiraling poverty (over 40%), and rustic infrastructure are too overwhelming. These are very real issues, and Puerto Ricans are grappling with these and broader issues of education, health care and brain drain, as people are leaving the island in droves to seek better opportunities on the mainland.
There is no way to capture the richenss of four months on Puerto Rico in a single blog, but here are a some highlights along with a few pictures to entice.
Old San Juan
Old San Juan oozes history along its blue cobblestone streets, leading you through a maze of vibrant melon colored Spanish colonial buildings which hide tiny plazas and art sculptures, creating the delight upon discovery that a small child feels when finding a hidden Easter egg. The remarkably preserved forts of El Castillo San Felipe del Morro and El Castillo de San Cristóbal remind the traveler of their critical duty as sentinels along this historic walled city serving as the gateway for Spain to the Caribbean Sea, or the Spanish Lake, as they like to call it. Puerto Rico’s name meaning “rich port” refers to being rich in natural resources like fresh water, timber and food which was critical for supplying ships both arriving from Spain after the long voyage across the Atlantic, and those returning to Spain. Although many visitors skim the area quickly during a half-day tour on their way to a Pina Colada (originated in Old San Juan), it is the early morning hours and late evening when history seems to whisper her secrets to the visitor.
El Yunque Rainforest
El Yunque (or The Caribbean National Forest) is the only tropical rainforest within the U.S. National Forest system, and has been called a gentle forest with its thousands of native plants (150 different types of ferns alone) but no large wildlife species. The 240+ species of trees provide a home for the endangered Puerto Rican Parrot, 22 out of 23 species of coqui frogs and hundreds of other small animals. If I had to pick one sound that encapsulates Puerto Rico it would be the singing of the coqui frogs at night or in the rain. Their song is distinctive and sweet like the people of Puerto Rico. I was awe struck every time I visited this forest with it’s beauty, views and diversity of plant life. Many of the trails near the beginning of the forest are brimming with tourist while others closer to the top you can have all to yourself.
Other favorites included:
- Camuy Caverns (Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy) one of the largest cave systems in the world, boasting the third largest underground river in the world. Only a small portion of the vast limestone cave system has been mapped, and of that only a tiny portion is open to the public. Very prehistoric !
- Bioluninescent Bays in Fajardo and Vieques are magical. See Ayla’s blog: Swimming with the Stars
- Ziplining at the foot of El Yunque was not only exhilierating, but an educational treat due to Rogi and Jamie who were fabulous guides, and truly enjoyed sharing their extensive knowledge of the forest and Puerto Rican history. FANTASTIC! See Ayla’s blog: Zip-A-Dee-Doo-Dah! Thank goodness some one was writing blogs while we were there. 🙂
- Arecibo Radio Telescope, the largest radio telescope in the world is nestled in the natural depressions of limestone not far away from the Camuy Caverns. Several people told us not to waste our time visiting. Ayla and I loved it. Of course, she has become an astronomy geek this year, which may have something to do with it. 🙂 The picture include above in no way captures the impressiveness of this delicate but massive piece of equipment. Their small visitor center is jammed packed with astronomical displays and information.
The list could go on and on… Should you decide to visit this enchanted island, I highly recommend puertoricodaytrips.com to be the best source for up-to-date, honest and thorough information. Should you be visiting by boat, Sunbay Marina in Fajardo which was our home base for four months was FANTASTIC! Prices are competitive, and the marina is run with an efficiency, security and cleanliness that should be a model for marinas worldwide. Keep in mind, it is not a resort marina (i.e. restaurants, swimming pools and game rooms). But Olga and her team (Carmen and Angelica in the office) along with their team of dockhands and security guards make this marina unique in the Carribean. When I speak of the easy smile and warmth of the Puerto Rican people this team is at the top of the list. Thank you Sunbay for a great stay!
I hope the wind and current bring us back to this magical location sooner than later, until then…
¡Hasta luego Puerto Rico!
By coincidence. your blog was posted the day before the 50th anniversary celebration in PR of me graduating from Robinson School in the Condado area of San Juan. I lived there from second grade thru college.
Your blog brought back many memories and I loved the photos.
Wow, Kathryn, what a great story. We both agree that it is all you said it is. Our thoughts for next year want to take us back to this magical island. Stay tuned
I’ve been to Puerto Rico once with Jaime and Adrian (at 6 mo.). I cannot wait to go back. We stayed with Jaime’s grandma in Rincon, but I also loved Old San Juan and the view from El Morro! Safe travels Besemer family!
Hi Kathryn! Myself, along with my son, Bryan (the physics major), and my sister, Sharon were on the island with you and Ayla. We rode the zipline with you and your friends in the rain forest. I agree with everything you said in your description of the island. It is both enchanting and frustrating at the same time. I loved it and also hope to return very soon. Thanks for putting me back there for a little while. Best of luck to you guys!
Kathryn,
Hello! I’m catching up on your journey after way too long. I feel like I just visited Puerto Rico – I love your journal. Simon will be in Maine Jan through May 2012 at Chewonki Semester School – check it out online. You all look marvelous.
Love, Shelley
Hi Kathryn!!! We are an online women’s magazine and we are doing an article on Eco-adventuring. Wondering if we could share your blog in our article???? We would love to include am entry as well as a synopsis of your story. Let us know…thanks!